Tuesday, June 20, 2006

Hiking with the Condors: Colca Canyon, Peru


Well, here we are back in Peru, and with mountains all around us, we naturally feel the need to climb in them. This time however, unlike any hike we´ve done, we climbed down.
The hike was in a place called the Colca Canyon, a place famous for two things - hoards of condors, and being the deepest canyon in the world. They are proud of that claim, however, don´t tell the Chinese that, since they seem to think the title belongs to Tiger Leaping Gorge on the Yangtze. But the deepest or not, it was a pretty spectacular place.
The hike itself was simple enough - we went down, and we came back up. Going down was all good, and our night in the small village perched precariously on the side of the mountain was great (see the bottom pic). On the second day we spent a lazy few hours swimming in a pool filled with spring water, attempting to forget the fact that we´ve just voluntarily dropped ourselves into the bottom of the deepest canyon - with only one way out. Yup, what goes down must come up (well, in the hiking world anyway), and so eventually we had to face the music and walk back up. Now, I would generally consider myself a fairly strong climber, and after hiking in almost every major range in the world over the last few years, I am no stranger to a good verticle. But I have to admit that this gorge absolutly kicked my ass. In the intense heat of the midday sun, it was proabably the most challenging hike I´ve done, and 24 hours later I´m still suffering. Marla - where are you when I need a good masseuse. I´m sure Lisa would like me to confess that with a little more ambition than me, she reached the top a full 25 minutes before my lazy beer belly. But those petty little details aren´t important are they.
Today, after resting our sore muscles we hoped on the bus for the 6 hour ride back to Arequipa. Along the way we stopped at a lookout point where hundreds of massive condors (eagle like birds) can be seen soaring around the canyon. Of course, being the middle of winter, there are no condors - something the travel agencies conveniently forget to mention to you when upselling their tour. However, we were lucky enough to spot a couple so at least I can say we´ve seen them.
Now we are back in Arequipa, and with only a week left before our flight from Lima, we are wondering what to do next. Volcano biking maybe, exploring some ancient civilizations, shopping?....

2 Comments:

At 7:14 p.m., Anonymous Anonymous said...

Beautiful - absolutely beautiful!

(And where are you when I need massage therapy clienele?)

 
At 10:23 p.m., Anonymous Anonymous said...

Man, you should start publishing travel guides yourselves - the commentary is great to read and your photography is inspiring.
Your travelogue gets me so anxious to go somewhere! I'm going to Gros Morne in Newfoundland this summer for the first time, so that will be good. :) Keep it up!

 

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